Monday, June 22, 2009

Postcard to S Factor

Sheila Kelley's S Factor New York
235 W 23rd St
NY, NY 10011
USA

Dear Gerri, Heather, Yesim, Anna, beautiful teachers and ambassadors, Jennifer Sterling's Saturday noon, all other sisters and students, and of course, Sheila . . .

Thank you for helping me get to Ecuador. Thank you for inspiring me that night at Truth & Dare, which now seems like a far off moving meditation. I had no idea how beautiful and talented you all are. Soon Amanda will be in Ecuador, and somehow this entire adventure comes full (hip) circle. . . and around again; it is as if you've all come with me! So much serendipity and generosity is in our studio--I feel it here as I remember how this all came to be--this desire which became a seed which became a plan which became a reality--I can imagine this is something like how S Factor began. Teaching and acting and creating are as important to me and intertwined with my life as is moving and dancing through the language of SSS with you. I hope I can someday and somehow be part of helping you reap your other passions too.

Sending you a delicious fresh squeezed passion fruit kiss,

Jennifer x

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Fire Water

If you haven't guzzled Fire Water out of a recycled 1 L water bottle from a stranger at a street party, I won't describe it. But in Ecuador, there are plenty of other kinds of fire and water for me to share with you:



This is how I will initiate my children into adolescence.



Yes, he said boobies.

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Sharing the Moon

A few nights ago in Mindo, the moon was full. That night, in the tiny jungle-town in the clouds with its streets crumbling, children playing on dust piles with wooden crosses, huge colorful birds painted on every city wall, the people danced in the streets under the moon. Kathleen, Christen, and I were dragged by our taxi drivers and zip lining guides from party to party, but for some reason I kept getting caught dancing with a sixteen year old who wouldn´t take no for an answer. This has become a joke that doesn´t get old. We danced until midnight and drank firewater out of a plastic bottle but were home like Cinderella at midnight. NOTE: ¨uno mas¨does not mean ¨one more¨. In Ecuador, it means ¨infinity.¨

The children here are inspiring. The next night, Christen and I decided to eat Ecuadorian food while the others had pizza. We turned down the market street to find a random bonfire ablaze in the middle of the road under the stars hidden by Mindo clouds. The artisans of the village were playing the flute, the drums, and some kind of plumbing pipe. The music seemed to incense the children to be daring and fearless; the game was to jump over the flames as many times as possible without getting burned. They were laughing and squealing with the kind of fear that is also exhiliration---the kind of exhiliration I felt when I hung upside down on a cable that connected two mountains while my arms dangled into the ravine below. We watched the children dance with the flames for 30 minutes until the fire turned to embers and smoke. Then we ate rice, beans, and yucca till our stomachs were as full as the moon.

The night of the street party, someone sent me an email, imagining how we were both sharing the moon from very different places, wondering if I were feeling as full as it was--full of inspiration, full of happiness, full of myself. Reading her words days later, my experience that night was suddenly enriched with the thought that we had shared that night, defied separation and sewed distastance together with that night-light in the sky.

In Mindo, our casts sewed together our experiences over the past three weeks ---into two short performances. We created something general out of something specific, stories full of details that would never have existed without support, without an impulse, without desire. A question was raised in one of the pieces: why share these specific experiences? Will anyone but us get it? I wondered briefly if my blogs might evoke a similar alienation.

The Yellow cast´s piece ended with words that made me cry, for it justified precisely why sharing this adventure is important. The final words captured precisely why I am here in Ecuador, why I am blogging and why the moon deepens our collective nights:

¨. . . in those quiet moments when we are alone together there will be more life between us, more shared understanding to tie us together and we will no longer be solitary beings walking around stuffed with their own memories, but rather people who are attached . . .¨ -Regina Gibson

When we share our experiences via the details, we share the moon. We can feel connected to each other on a night that might easily be a lonely or solitary one. When we choose to share our moments and adventures we braid pieces of our lives together. We can never share one life completely with another person let alone with everyone, but by sharing when we can the details, by telling our stories, we enrich our love for and understanding of each other; we create a moon of our own.

Juliet says the moon is inconstant. I think rather it is perfectly constant--a constantly changing constancy. The Blue cast´s piece (our piece) explored a woman´s desire for a life of her own, permanent impermanence, passion, and freedom. Emerson said that a ¨zig zag line of a hundred tacks¨ is straight at a distance. We will all change. We will all grow, and we will all die. Who knows what beyond that. I think we continue to evolve. I think we enter another phase of the moon.

I leave Ecuador tomorrow morning. I have exactly 15 hours left in Quito, and yes, I am choosing to blog. I feel inspired by this country and you. Yes, all of you who read this and follow along with me, those who have directly and indirectly made this incredible journey what it is and what it will be as I take so many habits, lessons, ideas back to New York, where after a month or so the moon will be full again. Who will share it with me then?


Friday, June 5, 2009

In Clouds


It's the first day in Mindo, and yet again don´t know if the clouds signify that this is but a dream.

IF YOU GO

highlights of your journey there will include:


  • Machetes
  • Using cab drivers´cell phones to reach half your team who got lost in another cab going to the wrong bus station. HINT: know more Spanish words than Terrestre, No Bueno, and Muy Delicioso.
  • Waiting for 75 minutes on the side of a highway for the last bus to Mindo. HINT: It comes after you give up and walk back to the bus station.
  • Unknowingly tracking dog shit into the van-taxi and blaming the driver for smelling like a diaper.
  • Not knowing why your driver wants to pick up ¨his friend¨to go with him on the ride. You´ll sweat as he winds back through the streets of Quito, wondering if he is leading you to a pickpocket den of his strongest amigos where they will beat us, take our passports, and sell our ovaries.
  • The sensation of sweet American shame--- when you discover ¨his friend¨is just his wife.
  • A hot argument with driver when he stops 3 miles outside your agreed destination. We call this one: ¨midnight in the jungle without a ride¨

highlights of being there also include:

  • Waking from your treehouse bed to the sound of birds whispering.
  • Hiking through waterfalls and sliding into a freezing pool upside down.
  • Gliding over deep valleys in a rusty cable car in the mist.
  • Riding in the rain standing in the back of a pickup truck and dodging branches and clouds.
  • Warming up with local grown coffee and chocolate made from cacao beans roasted and ground here. You´ll help make the syrup that you pour all over bananas and strawberries. All for $1.50.
  • Using rehearsals to explore the character of a mysterious Baaronness, her many lovers and their strange disappearance over 80 years ago.

Good Night, Day One.

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Death and Desire


Baroness Wagner de Bosquet, brandishing a pistol and a whip, brought her three lovers to The Galapagos in 1929. One was found dead. One disappeared with her, neither of them to be seen again. The last left Floreana, returning to the Ecuadorian mainland.

Who was she? Why did she come here? Did they survive? What happened?

Quest.
Fantasy. Hotel. Home. Encantada.

Five women writing a play with Quilotoa fire in our blood step into thick, wet, sea-level air.















Dying
Disappearing
Adapting
Discovering
Recovering Transforming
Returning
Desiring



Bluer than Hawai'i. Smaller. Stranded? Where are we?


What is happening to my body? Why am I sad? Why am I happy? Where am I going? What will I be? When will I die? What is time? Will you touch my face? Can you see me? Where are you now? Will you remember me? Will you remember me when I die? Do you believe in love? What can't I live without? What did I eat? Am I strong enough? Am I good enough? Am I thin enough? What does chemotherapy feel like? Will I forget? Why can't people write myths? Why can't we fly? Where do currents go? Who's looking at the moon? Will I have children? Will I lose my job? Why don't I eat meat? Why do I love dancing? Where does joy come from? Can I trust myself? What color are my eyes? What is missing in my life? Do you think I'm a whore? Do I care? What kind of god do you believe in? Do you believe in Love? Do you like the feel of sand in your hair? How long can you go without a shower? What exactly is a tree tomato? How do you say avocado in Spanish? What am I thinking of? What do I feel? Does heartache say goodnight? Why be excited? Can you be in love with the world? With everyone in it? With kittens and coconut soft serve? Can I live without my mother? Will I dream tonight? Will I remember it? Will Shakespeare forgive me? When will I see England again? Will I die young? When will I realize I'm old? How will my body fall apart? Will I be eaten by a shark? Will I skydive? Will you join me? Can you always follow your heart? What will this play be like? What's the weather in New York? What's it like to have 3 lovers? "Can the child within my heart rise above?"

Tortoises, Surfers
Easy and juicy prey

Naked vegetarians
Stainless steel teeth
Bodies pillaged
Oil and meat


Men with mach
etes trim the hair of a cementerio. They follow us. We want to live.

"I'm changing, arranging; I'm changing everything . . . oh everything around me. The world is a bad place, a bad place, a terrible place to live; oh but I don't want to die"

Sunday, May 31, 2009

Swimming with Sharks

It´s Sunday, so teaching isn´t until tomorrow. Spending all day on a dingy off the coast of St Cristobal is not a bad second choice. We sped 30-40 km around the west coast of the island and stopped to snorkel along the way.

We approached the rock called Sleeping Lion or the Kicker (depending on from where you view it), my heart racing because Jesse and Manolo say we have the option to swim with vegetarian sharks today.

I don´t know what didn´t stop me from jumping in the water to swim through the narrow crevice of the giant sea-stranded rocks, a craggy, sunny perch for Lobos (sea lions), Boobies, and iguanas. In the cold waters swishing through the tunnel we couldn´t see the sea floor. There was a metropolis below to which we did not belong only visible if we stopped to study the depths. From meters below our fins, the figure I knew well from aquariums and nature shows: the unmistakable confident and leathery sway of grey sharks. They were distinct only when still . . . and near.

They were not occupied by us. They were in fact, not vegetarian (as Wilson, our tour guide also insisted) but rather, pescatarians. I held Kathleen´s hand as promised to get through the crack to the promised land of the other side. That sunlight beyond the arch of the rocks was the closest imagining of heaven I have ever felt. Yet I was still and bewildered. We glided through the water sometimes hiding behind Wilson for ¨safety¨ whatever that means. But in the thick of the swim, on a higher echelon than the sharks floating in a threesome, were eagle rays, or what I prefer to call, ¨sea-moths¨. They stunned me without stinging. If only I could run. Even with fins, I must have moved like a sea lion on the sand...mobile but essentially helpless, awkward, and . . . cute as pie?

As we crossed through the oracle, I knew that from watching many a suspense thriller that any relief to have made it through, would only mean that I would suddenly feel the tearing of my leg from my hip by a baby shark and his ensuing family. I decided to remain agitated to preserve my safety as a terror film protagonist. But then again, this nervousness was also no good, I decided, despite my appearance of calm: to sharks, acting is probably as futile a mask as gum is to garlic. On the other side, the water was murky and full of tiny jellyfish. We were suddenly stung at random, the group of us singing like a chorus hit by tiny shafts of fire. We all climbed back aboard, never exhaling until we ourselves were each aboard (survival of the fittest; every woman for herself). The boat raced to our picnic spot as though it were as charged as we were by the creatures we dared to intrude upon.

But our last snorkel spot of all renewed our lightheartedness: in shallow shark-free waters we watched sea lions swim around us in spins and flips and stare with big puppy eyes. I thought I would explode. Galapagos turtles moved at their opposite speed under the surface while we voyeurs again looked on, uninvited but welcome.


Jan went home today.

Yesterday´s 5 hour rehearsal was so exciting. I can´t wait to create.

Tomorrow: in the school!

Wish you were here,

J.

Saturday, May 30, 2009

Adapting to Galapagos

There is no way to catch it all except in fragments before I forget.
I am in the Galapagos now, and Quilotoa feels like a lifetime ago. I will still try to capture it before Galapagos takes it over and before Mindo takes over Galapagos.


Right now: Mockingbird Cafe in Galapagos, post breakfast, listening to Bryan Adams sing Ëverything I Do¨ in Spanish. This priceless CD is all 90´s covers in Spanish, including Glenn Medeiros´¨Never Gonna Change My Love for You¨.


Surprise of the Trip: Starbucks buys 85% of the Organic coffee grown in the Galapagos. This changes my snobbery of them entirely. Now if only the baristas had uniform training on how to make a cappucino.


Friday 5/29
Woke up sick as a gringo. Couldn´t keep anything in my body. Only fruit juice sufficed and had to go out to collect wood in a nature preserve in the highlands of the Galapagos. Sweat did me good. So did fresh squeezed ¨fruitas de la passion . . .¨ We met beautiful ladies from Finland, Scotland, and Connecticut who were spending months volunteering at Hacienda Tranquilitas. Then we rode horses up to a lookout where we saw the entire island. Endless blue. Cities took up so little of the landscape. Riding in the back of the truck taxi and drawing murals on buildings for children to paint.

We went to teach at the school, but they were off for children´s week! hahahahah love it. Then we hiked the crater that once was a volcano and watched giant frigets swoop and shake down into the lake. Then came the tortoise center and then the Porto Chino beach where we arrived at sunset and swam in the soft sand and waves until twilight was done while pelicans dive bombed the water around us. We picked up Jan, a traveler from Poland who is doing research on Ecuadorian politics and teaching children computer science. After my first nourishment since breakfast, we stopped by a political party which consisted of a basketball court and hibachi grills on the perimeter. That didn´t last long, I was so tired.

Today rehearsal and tomorrow we swim with sharks and sea lions.

More on Quilotoa later! Not enough time! My camera broke. Wish I could send pictures.

J.